Florentine renaissnce dress (ca 1530) for 18" Miss America doll

Bia

(Firenze, ca 1530-1540)

Yes, my friends, I robbed Bronzino - and why not, when 18" doll Miss America by Tonner, which I found on e-bay (thank you, Dale Rae!), looks like an ancient Italian beauty?
OK, I did not troubled myself with any chemise or stays (the bodice fits perfectly, and I really do not feel the need to draw the huge sleeves of the chemise through the narrow sleeves of the dress), and the headdress is ahistorical mix of Italian balzo and French hood, but the result is better than I hoped :-)
I would like to thank "Realm of Venus" - their documentation helped me so much!

I do not display the pattern here, because the Miss America is not very widespread doll, and my cat ate the bodice pattern. (Really!)
But a very similar pattern for bodice for 16" Tonner doll is here - Marguerite's dress from Ever After.

Popis

The dress has the high waistline and very full, knife pleated skirt. The bodice is one-pieced, very tight fitting and stiff. . The square neckline and the bottom of the skirt are embellished with two lines of navy satin bands. The dress is entire lined and fastens back with hooks and eyes.
Each of the double sleeves was sewn and lined separately. The narrow black undersleeve has the seam from elbow to wrist "laced" with elastic thread and trimmed with off-white ruffle. The upper puffed sleeve (4-5x wider, than normal sleeve, and 2x longer than the required result) was - after lining- 4x horizontally gathered. Then there were attached row of "lappets" to the bottom of the puffed sleeve, and the undersleeve was sewn into ca 0,5-1 cm under the top of the puffed sleeve At last the finished sleeve was attached to the lined bodice with slip stitch.
The neckline is filled with the gathered, high necked partlet, which is embelished with a simple blackwork and a ruffle.
The blue petticoat gives the skirt fullness.
Accessoires: the long, bright red girdle, finished with beaded tassels, the rosary, the white stockings, brown "Mary-Jane" leather shoes and the "hood".
I created the hood from a piece of a strong copper wire, triple folded, twisted with a strand of cotton wool and sewn into a stripe of elastic fabric (old t-shirt).Then I covered the roll with the same fabric as I used for the dress, twisted with a narrow band, beaded, to the "back" part was attached the half-circular veil and the "hood" was finally bent to the shape of horseshoe.

Použité materiály

For the dress and the "hood" I used a royal blue viscose with orange woven pattern;
a blue habotai as lining;
a black cotton velvet for undersleeves;
a blue ribbed silk for the petticoat;
an off-white pongé for the partlet and ruffles, and bright red pongé for the girdle;
the stockings are from an elastic t-shirt, the veil froma black chiffon.


	Agnolo Bronzino: Lucrezia Panciatichi ,1540

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