Lady Clemence

(England ca 1525-1530)

anglické renesanční šaty pro panenku

Last year, just before Christmas the chairwoman of our doll's club ringed me up and cheerily said: "I have a big , pretty and cheap adult-looking porcelain doll for you! With breasts! Interested?" Yes, I was interested and when she brought the doll, I had no regrets. The porcelain parts for adult-looking doll were quite hard to find here and these looked good. But the doll had too long body and legs, and probably the ugliest  gown I ever had seen.
So, I made a new, better and shorter body for her (now she is ca 52 cm tall), removed both heels, repainted her face ad gave her grey eyes.
I planned to dress her in Louis  XIV style at first (her original dress looked like from this era), but then my kitten played with her wig.... :-( As lazy person and admirer of Tudor fashion I decided then to make something a la Jane Seymour, and any wig was necessary :-). I looked through dress diaries of various skilled fan costumers to obtain information "how to do it" and "how to make it historically acceptable". Well, the costume is finished now, and the doll is displayed in the castle of Zruč nad Sázavou.

Approximately  70-80 percent is hand sewn, the farthingale, petticoat , stays, shoes and false undersleeves are partially machine sewn.

  • The dark red/black gown is entire lined in a black fabric, and is laced up back.  The bodice, consisting of 3 pieces, is very tight fitting and stiff. The square neckline and the front slit of the skirt are embellished with golden trim, glass pearls, bead caps and green fire beads.  
    The sleeves are narrow to the  elbows, but then they become much larger, reach to the tips of the doll's fingers and turned back, they expose their black velvet lining.
  • The golden false undersleeves are of approx. half-circular shape, and are lined. They reach just above her elbows, where are fastened with hook and eye. The three slashes and the "seam" are filled with a white chiffon and embellished with bead caps, glass pearls and pale green fire beads.

  • The front part of the underskirt is made from a golden brocade, but the back part is from a cheaper fabric, as it was usual in late renaissance era. The underskirt is trimmed with a golden lace.
  • Under the skirt are the cone-shaped farthingale, reinforced with plastic stripes, the white petticoat, the strapless stays and the gathered shift. The doll has the black stockings and the simple brown leather shoes on her feet.

  • The pattern and tutorial for the "English hood" I found on wonderful  Ninya Mikhaila's web pageUnfortunately, I couldn't use the tutorial, but the pattern was great help. The base of my (OK, Clemence's) hood is from a cardboard, reinforced with stripes of plastic. The front part of the hood is covered with a white batiste, and the back part with a black silk. The  "bottom" of the hood is hidden under a bigger square of a black silk, with all the four points turned to the center and fastened with a tiny black button. Two black "veils" hang from the back of the hood. The part, that frames the face, is jeweled and beaded. The  golden/black and white "lappets" were pinned to the top of the hood at last.  I tried to make the hood three times - the porcelain ears deformed it's shape. So I cut out the holes for them in the cardboard base, then covered the holes with batiste  - and it looked all right.

  • The outfit complement the pearl necklace and the girdle, made from glass pearls, flat bead caps and green fire beads.
Used materials
  • For the gown I used a red/black jacquard viscose and a black polyester fabric as the lining;
  • a black cotton velvet for the lining of the lower part of the sleeves
  • for the front part of underskirt  and  for the false undersleeves I used a golden polyester brocade;
  • a yellow cotton upholstery damask for the rest of the undeskirt;
  • a white viscose chiffon as filling of the slashes on the undersleeves;
  • a white cotton batiste for the shift, the stays, the hood and  the petticoat; a white cotton damask for the farthingale.
  • a gold/black viscose jacquard and a black crepe-de-chine for the hood;
  • a golden yellow pongee for the lining of the false undersleeves.

anglické renesanční šaty pro panenku    

Original state and the original dress. For her size the doll gained a "working name" Obluda - i. e. "Monster". The black stain at her head is my  kitten Connie.

Obluda got the stays and the petticoat. On the third picture she has her original makeup partially removed, a wig, stolen from an other doll, the underskirt,
farthingale and false underseeves, without embellishment.

The gown without embellishment, no chemise. Final result  + new make up and new grey eyes.

anglické renesanční šaty pro panenku

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