Yes, people, I decided to rob Velazquez, Carreňo de Miranda and the
movie Follie des grandeurs
Undergarments is very important - they help to create thes hape of the
costume. So I began here.... In days of old as undergarments were
considered chemise, stays (corset), petticoat(s), hooped petticoat (called
farthingale, crinoline, paniers, verdugado, tontillo, guardainfante -
depends where and when) and stockings
truth is, I haven't clue, how the Spanish hoopskirt of
17th century looked - and I researched quite thoroughly! (A Spanish prudery,
perhaps? :-)But the guardainfante was the
"grandma" of rococo paniers, so I borrowed the way of construction
The undergarments were made for a regular Barbie doll, not for the
modern "belly button" type.
The stays are partially machine sewn, one piece +
lining, reinforced with stripes of a thin plastic. The upper part, including the
shoulder straps is trimmed with a bias stripe. They are laced back, the shoulder
straps are attached at front with small hooks and thread eyes.
How to make stays for Barbie doll:
you need a thin, but strong, non-fraying fabric (
a cotton muslin or strong batiste) ca
50 x 20 cm, a piece of thin plastic sheet,
bias cut stripe (50 cm, silk pongee
here) and fabric glue. FrayCheck helps magnificently,
but is not necessary.
And here are Elizabethan stays and farthingale for a 16" Tonner doll,
mostly machine sewn.
- Draw the pattern to the fabric, and stitch the lines by
hand with thread of different colour, so you can see the shape of the corset on
both sides of the fabric.
- Sew even number of a rectangular shaped small "sacks" (12
pcs here) turn them to their right side, iron it. Then glue the seam
allowances of the sacks to the seam allowances of the RIGHT bottom side of the
corset, so the bottoms of the sacks head to inside of the corset.
- When the glue is dry, put the corset piece right side to
right side on the lining fabric. Sew the back and bottom edges. cut
the seam allowances to ca 3-4 mm, clip where it is necessary, and turn to the
right side. Iron it.
- Quilt the tunnels for the "boning" - by hand or by
machine, depends on you. Into the tunnels insert stripes, cut of the
plastic sheet. the stripes should be 1-2 mm shorter than the tunnels. Sew
together both layers of fabric on upper edge, cca 1-1,5 mm under the
pattern line. Cut out the seam allowance completely, secure the edges
against fraying with FrayCheck or textile glue, and trim the edge with bias cut
- On each end of the shoulder straps make a thread eye, and to
wrong side of each "corner" sew a small metal hook.